In order to get a good bike fit you need to ensure you have the proper frame size for your body. I selected the 17" frame and it looks like it fits perfectly. Below is the link for the Motobecane website geometry for the Fantom 29:
http://motobecane.com/29geometry.html
My leg inseam is 33.75". This is measured by placing a 1" thick book up tight between your legs and measuring the distance between the floor an the book spine. The 17" frame has a standover height of 31.7". Therefore I have about 2" of clearance. It is recommended to have 2 to 4" of clearance for mountain biking. The 19" frame would have only given me 1" of clearance so that is why I purchased the 17" frame. Note that you usually need to be one size down for a 29er vs a 26er. I would normally fit a 19 to 20" frame for a 26er.
The next step is to adjust the seat height. You can get a rough idea of where to set the seat height. The distance between the center of the pedal crank and the top of the seat is approximately 0.883 X leg inseam measurement. For me this would be about 29.8". Make sure the seat is level. Now that I have a longer seat post I can make this adjustment. When sitting on the seat the fully extended leg should be slightly bent at the knee.
The next step is to adjust the front to back seat position. The seat should be moved front or back so that the tip of your knee is directly vertical over the center of the pedal when in the horizontal position. This is called the neutral knee position.
Next I check my reach to see if my stem length is proper. When I sit on the bike I do not feel cramped or too far forward. I will see how this feels in future rides. Here are some links on bike fit that found helpful:
http://www.uspn.com/ibc/riding_tips/How_to_Fit_a_Mountain_Bike.htm
http://www.caree.org/bike101bikefit.htm
At this time I also adjusted the front derailleur to fix the problem of not shifting into the large crank sprocket. I also noticed that the end of the cable for the front derailleur was too long so I trimmed it and crimped on a new end. Here are instructions:
http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/SI_6N1FA_002/SI_6N1FA_002_En_v1_m56577569830625524.pdf
I also lubed the chain. I installed a rear fender that I had on my old Mongoose Pro.
Finally I installed the Cateye Enduro 8 Computer. Here are the instructions:
http://www.cateye.com/sites/cateye/upload/manuals/en/ED300v1_E-1.pdf
These instructions do not include the tire setting for the 29x2.1 tire. On the cateye website it says to use 229 cm.
Friday, February 29, 2008
Thursday, February 28, 2008
Nashbar order arrived!
Today I received my order from Nashbar.com.
I hope tomorrow night I can complete my bike fitting and setup so I can ride on Saturday. The weather should be windy in the upper 30's and no rain. It hasn't rained since Tuesday so hopefully the trails will be less muddy.
I hope tomorrow night I can complete my bike fitting and setup so I can ride on Saturday. The weather should be windy in the upper 30's and no rain. It hasn't rained since Tuesday so hopefully the trails will be less muddy.
Monday, February 25, 2008
Ordered Some Goodies
Yesterday I ordered some things for my bike from Nashbar.com. They were:
1 Nashbar 400mm Seatpost 27.2 $22.99
1 Cateye Enduro 8 Computer $23.95
1 Nashbar 29x1.9/2.3" Presta Atb Tube $5.99
1 Wheels Manufacturing Presta Savers $2.95
1 NASHBAR PRESTA VALVE ADAPTER $1.99
Ship Total : $9.25
Tax Total : $4.03
Grand Total : $71.15
I really need the seat post. I need to set the seat about 65 mm above the minimum mark on the existing post. So I am thinking that a 350 mm post should still be too small. The 400 mm should be good. I will do a full bike fit when I get the post and can set the seat at the right height since that is the first step in the procedure.
The Cateye Enduro 8 computer should be a good choice for a mountain bike http://www.cateye.com/en/product_detail/254
I think a cyclocomputer is a good idea so you can record how far you have ridden in a mileage log and also because it has a clock which is good on the trail since it is easy to lose track of time.
I also ordered a spare tube (just in case). I could only get a presta valve tube. The current tubes are schrader valve so I need to get a valve adapter and savers. The adapter allows you to use a regular compresser to fill your tires. The savers are a sleeve that you slip through the larger schrader rim hole when you are using a presta valve tube.
I debated whether or not to get a repair kit and seat bag but I think that is going to get real muddy and messy. If I got a flat I would need to walk the bike back to the car. I will have to think about this some more. For my fitness rides this would probably not be a problem, but if I go on longer trail rides I am sure I will need to carry the repair equipment.
1 Nashbar 400mm Seatpost 27.2 $22.99
1 Cateye Enduro 8 Computer $23.95
1 Nashbar 29x1.9/2.3" Presta Atb Tube $5.99
1 Wheels Manufacturing Presta Savers $2.95
1 NASHBAR PRESTA VALVE ADAPTER $1.99
Ship Total : $9.25
Tax Total : $4.03
Grand Total : $71.15
I really need the seat post. I need to set the seat about 65 mm above the minimum mark on the existing post. So I am thinking that a 350 mm post should still be too small. The 400 mm should be good. I will do a full bike fit when I get the post and can set the seat at the right height since that is the first step in the procedure.
The Cateye Enduro 8 computer should be a good choice for a mountain bike http://www.cateye.com/en/product_detail/254
I think a cyclocomputer is a good idea so you can record how far you have ridden in a mileage log and also because it has a clock which is good on the trail since it is easy to lose track of time.
I also ordered a spare tube (just in case). I could only get a presta valve tube. The current tubes are schrader valve so I need to get a valve adapter and savers. The adapter allows you to use a regular compresser to fill your tires. The savers are a sleeve that you slip through the larger schrader rim hole when you are using a presta valve tube.
I debated whether or not to get a repair kit and seat bag but I think that is going to get real muddy and messy. If I got a flat I would need to walk the bike back to the car. I will have to think about this some more. For my fitness rides this would probably not be a problem, but if I go on longer trail rides I am sure I will need to carry the repair equipment.
Sunday, February 24, 2008
First Ride
Today I took my first ride. I went to Marsh Creek State Park to ride my usual mountain bike route.
I put my bike on my roof rack. I use the Swagman SG64720 Upright Roof Rack.
http://www.bikerackshops.com/SG64720.html It is strong, simple and cheap at only $50. I the drive down to the Chalfont Road parking lot I then ride the white trail to the gravel roads to the dam, down the hill trail and back again. I then pickup the Blue Trail then back home. It is about a 2 hour workout.
I met a rider named John on the first gravel road hill and we road together for the rest of the ride. John had a full suspension Santa Cruz but was interested in my 29er.
I really did like the ride of the Motobecane Fantom 29. The trails were snowy and muddy but I felt like I had good traction. I was able to ride over most of the obstacles that gave me trouble before on the old Mongoose Pro.
Because I did not have the proper seat post yet I could not get a comfortable, efficient ride, so I can't count this as a good test.
I also noticed that I could not shift into the big front chain ring. This was not a big problem because I have never used those gears on these trails. I will adjust the front derailleur to take care of this later. I also noticed that I NEED FENDERS. John had fenders on his Santa Cruz and hardly got splattered. My back was completely covered in mud.
When I got home I hosed down the bike. A lot of people advise against this because you might force water into bearings etc. I think its good to keep the bike clean and I am careful not to use a high pressure jet spray. I will also lubricate the chain before I ride again.
I did notice another "issue". The saddle is a WTB Speed V . After I cleaned the mud off the bike I noticed a brown haze on the seat after drying. The seat surface has a slight texture. I even used orange cleaner and it still dried to a slight brown haze. I will see if any other cleaner does better or if I just need to clean it a couple of times. The saddle is not very expensive as it is only $20 at wheelworld.com. Here is the WTB webpage: http://www.wtb.com/products/saddles/recreation/speedv/
I put my bike on my roof rack. I use the Swagman SG64720 Upright Roof Rack.
http://www.bikerackshops.com/SG64720.html It is strong, simple and cheap at only $50. I the drive down to the Chalfont Road parking lot I then ride the white trail to the gravel roads to the dam, down the hill trail and back again. I then pickup the Blue Trail then back home. It is about a 2 hour workout.
I met a rider named John on the first gravel road hill and we road together for the rest of the ride. John had a full suspension Santa Cruz but was interested in my 29er.
I really did like the ride of the Motobecane Fantom 29. The trails were snowy and muddy but I felt like I had good traction. I was able to ride over most of the obstacles that gave me trouble before on the old Mongoose Pro.
Because I did not have the proper seat post yet I could not get a comfortable, efficient ride, so I can't count this as a good test.
I also noticed that I could not shift into the big front chain ring. This was not a big problem because I have never used those gears on these trails. I will adjust the front derailleur to take care of this later. I also noticed that I NEED FENDERS. John had fenders on his Santa Cruz and hardly got splattered. My back was completely covered in mud.
When I got home I hosed down the bike. A lot of people advise against this because you might force water into bearings etc. I think its good to keep the bike clean and I am careful not to use a high pressure jet spray. I will also lubricate the chain before I ride again.
I did notice another "issue". The saddle is a WTB Speed V . After I cleaned the mud off the bike I noticed a brown haze on the seat after drying. The seat surface has a slight texture. I even used orange cleaner and it still dried to a slight brown haze. I will see if any other cleaner does better or if I just need to clean it a couple of times. The saddle is not very expensive as it is only $20 at wheelworld.com. Here is the WTB webpage: http://www.wtb.com/products/saddles/recreation/speedv/
Saturday, February 23, 2008
Assembly: Finished Product
Here it is my completed 29er!!!When I get the longer seat post I will complete the fitting.
At this time I also lubricated the chain and put a little grease on all exposed cables to prevent rusting.
By the way, I weighed the bike on a bathroom scale and it is 30 lbs.
Assembly: 9 Set the Fork Sag
The bike has a RockShox Dart 3 front suspension. 
You need to set the fork sag. This is the amount of compression that the fork has when you sit on the bike.
I placed a tie wrap above the fork and then sat on the bike. The tie wrap then slides up and stays in place. The distance it moves should be 15-25 mm for the 100 mm travel fork. Mine was right at 20 mm which is OK. If adhustment is made by turning the top left cap clockwise for decreasing sag and counterclockwise for increasing sag.
At this time I also adjusted the external rebound. This is the speed at which the fork returns to full extension after being compressed. At the bottom right fork there is an adjustment knob with a "rabbit" for fast and a "turtle" for slow. I just put it in the middle for now.
The following link is for the Dart User Manual. Page 5 shows the tuning instructions,
http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/07%20Dart%20User%20Manual%2095-4012-306-000RevC.pdf
You need to set the fork sag. This is the amount of compression that the fork has when you sit on the bike.I placed a tie wrap above the fork and then sat on the bike. The tie wrap then slides up and stays in place. The distance it moves should be 15-25 mm for the 100 mm travel fork. Mine was right at 20 mm which is OK. If adhustment is made by turning the top left cap clockwise for decreasing sag and counterclockwise for increasing sag.
At this time I also adjusted the external rebound. This is the speed at which the fork returns to full extension after being compressed. At the bottom right fork there is an adjustment knob with a "rabbit" for fast and a "turtle" for slow. I just put it in the middle for now.
The following link is for the Dart User Manual. Page 5 shows the tuning instructions,
http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/07%20Dart%20User%20Manual%2095-4012-306-000RevC.pdf
Assembly: 8 Install the Reflectors
I then installed the red reflector on the seat post as shown. The white reflector is on the front handlebars.Assembly: 7 Install the Pedals
The pedals are labeled right and left. On the end of the axle there is a "L" or "R" stamped on the end.I apply a little grease to the threads to make sure that the pedals thread onto the crank easily.
I then tighted with a cresent wrench.
Assembly: 6 Install and Adjust the Front Brakes
The following are the steps to install and adjust the brakes:
1.) First remove the card board from between the disc pads.
2.) Slip the caliper over the rotor and tighten the bolts to the post. Do not tighten the bolts all the way at this time.
3.) Install the brake cable in the hand brake and route the cable through the inside of the fork and through the clamp bolt on the caliper.
Pull the slack out of the cable and tighten the clamp bolt. Use a tie wrap to secure the cable to the fork.
4.) Turn the inboard caliper wheel ( the red dial) clockwise until the disc pads just grip the rotor.
5.) Hold the brake hand lever to apply the brake and tighten the caliper bolts to the fork post.
6.) Turn the caliper wheel counterclockwise until the pads are not rubbing on the rotor when you spin the wheel. Make sure that when you apply the brake the hand lever travel is not too much.
I couldn't totally eliminate the rotor rub but it was so slight that I don't think it will be a problem.
1.) First remove the card board from between the disc pads.
2.) Slip the caliper over the rotor and tighten the bolts to the post. Do not tighten the bolts all the way at this time.
3.) Install the brake cable in the hand brake and route the cable through the inside of the fork and through the clamp bolt on the caliper.
Pull the slack out of the cable and tighten the clamp bolt. Use a tie wrap to secure the cable to the fork.4.) Turn the inboard caliper wheel ( the red dial) clockwise until the disc pads just grip the rotor.
5.) Hold the brake hand lever to apply the brake and tighten the caliper bolts to the fork post.
6.) Turn the caliper wheel counterclockwise until the pads are not rubbing on the rotor when you spin the wheel. Make sure that when you apply the brake the hand lever travel is not too much.
I couldn't totally eliminate the rotor rub but it was so slight that I don't think it will be a problem.
Assembly: 5 Install the Front Wheel
First I checked to make sure the tires were installed correctly. They were. On the tire there is a rotation arrow.Using the T-25 TORX bit I then installed the Rotor. The AVID logo must face out. The torque spec is 80-90 in-lb. I do not have a torque wrench so I get the bolts as tight as I can.
These rotors are the larger 185 mm size which is great for a 29er.
I then installed the skewer through the hub and locked the wheel onto the fork.
The required tire pressure is 35 t0 65 psi. I set the front and rear tire pressure right in the middle at 50 psi. I will probably experiment with a lower pressure for better traction in the future.
Assembly: 4 Install the Handlebars
The following are the steps to install the handle bars:
1.) Remove the hold down bolt on the aheadset.
2.) Remove the cardboard spacer.
3.) Place the handlebar stem over the aheadset and tighten the hold down bolt. You may have to rotate the handlebars to ensure the cables are not too twisted.
4.) Ensure that the handlebars are in line with the front wheel and tighten the side bolts.
5. When you look at the cables they will look all twisted up (picture 4).
Simply remove the handlebars from the stem and rotate the handlebars to untwist the cables (picture 5). Then attach the handle bars to the stem and tighten the bolts.
6.) Route the cables through the cable holders on the frame.
7.) Voila! you are done.
1.) Remove the hold down bolt on the aheadset.
2.) Remove the cardboard spacer.
3.) Place the handlebar stem over the aheadset and tighten the hold down bolt. You may have to rotate the handlebars to ensure the cables are not too twisted.
4.) Ensure that the handlebars are in line with the front wheel and tighten the side bolts.
5. When you look at the cables they will look all twisted up (picture 4).
Simply remove the handlebars from the stem and rotate the handlebars to untwist the cables (picture 5). Then attach the handle bars to the stem and tighten the bolts.6.) Route the cables through the cable holders on the frame.
7.) Voila! you are done.
Assembly: 3 Install the Seat
I always put a little grease on the seat post before inserting it into the post hole. This allows finer adjustments if needed.The seat post supplied is a 27.2 mm x 300 mm seat post. It is too short and I can't get the proper seat height.
I need about 65 mm more length. Nashbar.com has a 27.2 mm x 400 mm post that will do nicely for $22.95.
Assembly: 2 Layout the Parts
This first picture shows all of the individual parts and service books.The second picture shows how well packaged the bike is in the box. There were no damaged or missing parts.
Assembly: Getting Started
In the next several posts I will show you how I assembled the bike.The assembly is very easy. You do not need a lot of fancy tools. I used a $20 household tool kit from Walmart. The only tools you need are T-25 Torx bit, phillips screw driver, hex wrench set and wire cutters.
This next picture shows the shipping box. The gross weight was 20 kgs (44 lbs) .
Friday, February 22, 2008
Starting assembly.
I am in no rush to assemble the bike. Based on how much of the bike is already assembled it should be quick. I am going to take my time and I will post some pictures about what to expect in the assembly process.
I did start assembly and noticed that the seat post is too short and I can not get a proper seat height. The bike comes with a 27.2 mm x 300 mm seat post. I probably need at least a 350mm seat post.
If you recall Karla at bikesdirect said " Please email me when the item arrives.I am happy to answer questions and address concerns." So had this email exchange:
My email dated 2/22/2008 10:20:14 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, :
Karla
Thanks for the information on bike assembly. it is very helpful.
I did receive my bike by UPS yesterday Feb 21.
The bike looks great! I am starting to assemble it. I did notice that the seat post is too short for me and I can't get a proper fit and keep the minimum post insertion.. It is a 27.2mm x 300 mm seat post.
Would it be possible for you to send me a longer replacement like a 27.2mm x 350mm or even better a 27.2mm x 400mm?
Bikesdirect response 02/22/2008 at 02:54 pm
hi mike,
we are so happy you love the bike.
unfortunately we do not sell parts here
but you can take a look at www.bikeisland.com .
they have all parts and accessories and do not charge shipping fees.
have a great weekend : )
karla
Karla
Monday - Friday9a- 5p
I guess I am on my own. I will be getting a seat post. I usually order online from Nashbar or Performance Bikes. I will complete the assemble to see if there is anything else needed.
I did start assembly and noticed that the seat post is too short and I can not get a proper seat height. The bike comes with a 27.2 mm x 300 mm seat post. I probably need at least a 350mm seat post.
If you recall Karla at bikesdirect said " Please email me when the item arrives.I am happy to answer questions and address concerns." So had this email exchange:
My email dated 2/22/2008 10:20:14 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, :
Karla
Thanks for the information on bike assembly. it is very helpful.
I did receive my bike by UPS yesterday Feb 21.
The bike looks great! I am starting to assemble it. I did notice that the seat post is too short for me and I can't get a proper fit and keep the minimum post insertion.. It is a 27.2mm x 300 mm seat post.
Would it be possible for you to send me a longer replacement like a 27.2mm x 350mm or even better a 27.2mm x 400mm?
Bikesdirect response 02/22/2008 at 02:54 pm
hi mike,
we are so happy you love the bike.
unfortunately we do not sell parts here
but you can take a look at www.bikeisland.com .
they have all parts and accessories and do not charge shipping fees.
have a great weekend : )
karla
Karla
Monday - Friday9a- 5p
I guess I am on my own. I will be getting a seat post. I usually order online from Nashbar or Performance Bikes. I will complete the assemble to see if there is anything else needed.
Thursday, February 21, 2008
Monday, February 18, 2008
Bike Ordered!
On Monday February 18 receved 3 emails that told me that my bike had been shipped.
One of the emails had a lot of good informaton on assembley and links to maintenance. I will include it:
Thanks for your order Your item will be shipped via UPS.
The tracking number is as follows: xxxxxxxxxxxx
You can track it at http://www.ups.com/. (sometimes it takes 24 to 48 hours to show in their system)
Thank you for your order; we are sure you will love your bike. Bikes are shipped knocked down with pedals, handlebars, seat, and front wheel off.The brakes and derailleurs will need some minor adjustment., sometimes wheels need minor truing. It takes us about 25 minutes to setup a bike that is shipped like this. It is very easy to do; but most customers like to take their time and spend about an hour on setup.
If you would like to know more about bike assembly and adjustment, please see the following links:
LOOK AT THIS http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7WCSSy6ag8
and this on aheadset stems
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DgAiElcaVjs
or http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQindex.shtml
or http://www.bicyclinglife.com/ or
http://www.jimlangley.net/wrench/wrench.html
or check the manual at http://www.motobecane.com/
please note -- pedals are left and right threads -- the right pedals goes in the right side; left in the left side -- pedals should be greased and NEVER forced in. A stripped crank is always a setup error due to improper pedal installation. Just take it slow and it should be no problem. If you feel it is beyond your expertise or you prefer to not fool with the set up of your new bike, a fair price at a Bike Shop to assemble is about $25 to $50 in most areas of the country.
Please email me when the item arrives.I am happy to answer questions and address concerns.
If you need parts, clothing, or accessories we think you should try out http://www.bikeisland.com/Unlike most sites, they do not charge shipping! On items like Helmets, Computers, Shoes, and components can save you a lot. Many of our customers buy the starter tool kit and bike repair video at http://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_STOR20.cgi?Action=Details&ProdID=481This could easily be the best $20 you ever spent.
Thanks again andRemember we are always here to help you out
Karla
http://www.bikesdirect.com/
KarlaMonday - Friday9a- 5p
One of the emails had a lot of good informaton on assembley and links to maintenance. I will include it:
Thanks for your order Your item will be shipped via UPS.
The tracking number is as follows: xxxxxxxxxxxx
You can track it at http://www.ups.com/. (sometimes it takes 24 to 48 hours to show in their system)
Thank you for your order; we are sure you will love your bike. Bikes are shipped knocked down with pedals, handlebars, seat, and front wheel off.The brakes and derailleurs will need some minor adjustment., sometimes wheels need minor truing. It takes us about 25 minutes to setup a bike that is shipped like this. It is very easy to do; but most customers like to take their time and spend about an hour on setup.
If you would like to know more about bike assembly and adjustment, please see the following links:
LOOK AT THIS http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7WCSSy6ag8
and this on aheadset stems
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DgAiElcaVjs
or http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQindex.shtml
or http://www.bicyclinglife.com/ or
http://www.jimlangley.net/wrench/wrench.html
or check the manual at http://www.motobecane.com/
please note -- pedals are left and right threads -- the right pedals goes in the right side; left in the left side -- pedals should be greased and NEVER forced in. A stripped crank is always a setup error due to improper pedal installation. Just take it slow and it should be no problem. If you feel it is beyond your expertise or you prefer to not fool with the set up of your new bike, a fair price at a Bike Shop to assemble is about $25 to $50 in most areas of the country.
Please email me when the item arrives.I am happy to answer questions and address concerns.
If you need parts, clothing, or accessories we think you should try out http://www.bikeisland.com/Unlike most sites, they do not charge shipping! On items like Helmets, Computers, Shoes, and components can save you a lot. Many of our customers buy the starter tool kit and bike repair video at http://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_STOR20.cgi?Action=Details&ProdID=481This could easily be the best $20 you ever spent.
Thanks again andRemember we are always here to help you out
Karla
http://www.bikesdirect.com/
KarlaMonday - Friday9a- 5p
Saturday, February 16, 2008
I bought the Motobecane Fatom 29
Today I decided to buy the Motobecane Fantom 29.
Let me tell you how got there. I started riding a road bike 3 to 4 times a week starting in June 2007 for fitness. I completed 1001 miles in 2007. I bought a 2006 Raleigh Grand Prix for $700 at Shirk's Bike Shop in East Earl, PA. I am very pleased with the bike and continue to ride it.
This winter in order to get more variety in my fitness rides I started mountain bike riding on an old non suspension Mongoose Pro. The bike is too small for me as it was my son's when he was about 12 years old. I started riding at Marsh Creek State Park and loved it!. The rides are great workouts and I don't need to worry about slippery roads when I ride my road bike.
At first I thought I wanted a full suspension bike and was looking at the IBEX Ignition 3 because of its affordability at $799. http://www.ibexbikes.com/Bikes/IGN-3-Details.html Then I started reading about 29ers at mtbr.com. The 29er forum at mtbr http://forums.mtbr.com/forumdisplay.php?f=61 has a wealth of information. Ibex's also had a 29er at $899.
I had also been looking at the Motobecane Fantom 29 and it was a reasonable $595 http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/fantom29_08.htm for the 29er.
I decided to go to Shirk's and test a full suspension and a 29er. My plan was to pick the one liked the best and buy it there assuming it was just $100 or so more than I saw online. I test road a full suspension Raleigh and a Raleigh 29er. I liked the feel of the 29er better. It felt more stable and like the idea of the big wheels to roll over obstacles on the trail. I also thought the hard tail and wheel size would be good for taking long trail rides like on the C&O trail. You can ride this trail 337 miles from DC to Pittsburgh.
Anyway, the Raleigh 29er discounted was $1092 plus $65.55 sales tax. At that point I decided it was crazy to spend over $1000 for a bike primarily for fitness.
So I decided to order the Motobecane Fantom 29 at $595 no sales tax no shipping charge.
I ordered the 17 inch frame My actual inseam measurement is 33.75 inches. The 17" frame would give me about 2" clearance while the 19" frame would only give me about 1". The top tube length is only 0.4" difference and is about the Raleigh 29er was riding at Shirk's.
By the way don't expect much help from bikesdirect on sizing even though they tell you to email them with sizing questions. The following is an email exchange had with them when I was researching the Fantom 29:
My email 02/11/2008 at 11:03 PM
I am interested in purchasing a 2008 Motobecane Fantom 29 but am not sure what size to order. I am 6' 0" 170 lbs with a 33.75" actual leg inseam.
Thanks
Mike
Bikesdirect response 02/12/2008 3:14 PM
hi
sizing is personal preference so i cant tell you what size to buy but i can give you some tips.
most riders your height fit 17 to 19" bikes.please check out the geometry sizing chart and compare to bikes you have ridden.be sure you have enough room when you hop off the bike.
smaller bikes will give you lower handle bars and more aggressive handling.larger bikes will give you higher handle bars and less straddle room.
the final choice is up to you
thanks
joe
Let me tell you how got there. I started riding a road bike 3 to 4 times a week starting in June 2007 for fitness. I completed 1001 miles in 2007. I bought a 2006 Raleigh Grand Prix for $700 at Shirk's Bike Shop in East Earl, PA. I am very pleased with the bike and continue to ride it.
This winter in order to get more variety in my fitness rides I started mountain bike riding on an old non suspension Mongoose Pro. The bike is too small for me as it was my son's when he was about 12 years old. I started riding at Marsh Creek State Park and loved it!. The rides are great workouts and I don't need to worry about slippery roads when I ride my road bike.
At first I thought I wanted a full suspension bike and was looking at the IBEX Ignition 3 because of its affordability at $799. http://www.ibexbikes.com/Bikes/IGN-3-Details.html Then I started reading about 29ers at mtbr.com. The 29er forum at mtbr http://forums.mtbr.com/forumdisplay.php?f=61 has a wealth of information. Ibex's also had a 29er at $899.
I had also been looking at the Motobecane Fantom 29 and it was a reasonable $595 http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/fantom29_08.htm for the 29er.
I decided to go to Shirk's and test a full suspension and a 29er. My plan was to pick the one liked the best and buy it there assuming it was just $100 or so more than I saw online. I test road a full suspension Raleigh and a Raleigh 29er. I liked the feel of the 29er better. It felt more stable and like the idea of the big wheels to roll over obstacles on the trail. I also thought the hard tail and wheel size would be good for taking long trail rides like on the C&O trail. You can ride this trail 337 miles from DC to Pittsburgh.
Anyway, the Raleigh 29er discounted was $1092 plus $65.55 sales tax. At that point I decided it was crazy to spend over $1000 for a bike primarily for fitness.
So I decided to order the Motobecane Fantom 29 at $595 no sales tax no shipping charge.
I ordered the 17 inch frame My actual inseam measurement is 33.75 inches. The 17" frame would give me about 2" clearance while the 19" frame would only give me about 1". The top tube length is only 0.4" difference and is about the Raleigh 29er was riding at Shirk's.
By the way don't expect much help from bikesdirect on sizing even though they tell you to email them with sizing questions. The following is an email exchange had with them when I was researching the Fantom 29:
My email 02/11/2008 at 11:03 PM
I am interested in purchasing a 2008 Motobecane Fantom 29 but am not sure what size to order. I am 6' 0" 170 lbs with a 33.75" actual leg inseam.
Thanks
Mike
Bikesdirect response 02/12/2008 3:14 PM
hi
sizing is personal preference so i cant tell you what size to buy but i can give you some tips.
most riders your height fit 17 to 19" bikes.please check out the geometry sizing chart and compare to bikes you have ridden.be sure you have enough room when you hop off the bike.
smaller bikes will give you lower handle bars and more aggressive handling.larger bikes will give you higher handle bars and less straddle room.
the final choice is up to you
thanks
joe
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